28 January A Discussion with Maria Grazia
I put a shorter version of the following (25 January) listing up on Facebook. Maria Grazia replied that Amarone was not the opulent joy of my memories and that producers slimmed it down to suit the requests of the customer.
Here is my reply: We do not agree. The wine to serve at table should have been Valpolicella. Amarone should have remained a special product. By making Amarone into a wine to serve at table producers undercut and de-valued Valpolicella. Not every wine has to have a universal appeal. There is enough room in the wide world of wines to accommodate wines that do not fit into the “serve with red meat and mature cheese” category. The wine world has ample space to accommodate vini da meditazione. I thought way back in far off 1999 that the intelligent thing to do would be to start a vino da meditazione movement. Let consumers understand that Amarone is special and to help them understand the ritual of a vino da meditazione. I still think this is a good idea.
If you study marketing you will know that the customer does not always know what he wants…it is up to you (the producer, seller, journalist) to help explain what he wants. If consumers have no experience with vino da meditazione, then they will NOT want it. If you explain it, explain the ritual, explain the coolness (fico-ness) of it you can indeed induce consumers to try it. Thus Amarone would have maintained its allure and Valpolicella would have stepped in as the wine to serve at table.
25 Amarone Anteprima 2010 vintage – Tasting and Musing on Amarone
In 1999 I tasted all (yes all) of the commercially available Amarones. There were around 50 of them. In those days Amarone was a niche wine. Producers only took the time and trouble to make Amarone if they loved the wine.
Then the boom came and greed stepped in to take the place of common sense. Now there are a vast number of producers pumping out wines they label as Amarone. These wines far removed from the original style. You could compare tasting them to looking at a xerox (photo copy) of a xerox of a time-faded fax.
The reason I mention this ancient technology is this: there are now young winemakers who have never lived in a world where all Amarones had the distinctive rich and evocative style that made them so highly sought after in the first place. Since these winemakers are unclear about what the objective is they can’t possibly reproduce it.
At the annual Anteprima Amarone tasting I stood before a young winemaker who was very proud of his “slimmed down” Amarone. It was his first vintage after taking over from the previous winemaker. (I will admit to having a great fondness for the previous winemaker – an intelligent man who wore his heart on his sleeve: he loved and respected great wine.) I looked into the young winemaker’s smug face and thought: “He hasn’t a clue as to what made this wine special. This company producers dozens of wines that are slim and elegant; what they need is a wine that is joyously opulent and old-fashioned.”
Satisfying Amarone still exist, but to find them a wine buyer must become familiar with the characteristics of individual producers.
Here are a few of my favorites, producers who, year after year, have made good wines. The list is in no particular order. This is, I hasten to add, a partial list and it is also a personal list. I like Amarones that offer evocative perfumes and interesting textures on the palate. That said: Viviani, Marion, Zanoni, Roccolo Grassi, Speri, Zyme, Accordini Stefano, Guerrieri Rizzardi, Cesari, Corte Sant’Alda, Quintarelli and Dal Forno.
Again, before you producers out there start getting cranky, this is a partial list and I will happily write about other Amarone producers as the occasion arises.
January 23 Villa De Winckels Amarone Tasting
I arrive back in Verona from New York at a little after ten a.m. At five p.m. we are on our way to the annual Villa de Winckels Amarone tasting.
This is a superb event: well organized, producers who do not participate at other tasting are happy to present their wines in this venue (such as Romano Dal Forno), the food is exceptionally good, there is an opportunity to mingle and talk to the producers.
It is open to the public and worth every penny of the 40 Euro ticket price. I spoke to a couple of the guests at the Villa De Winckels hotel who had purchased tickets. They were delighted to have this unique opportunity and told me that they now arranged to come to Villa de Winckles every year at this time just to attend the tasting.
Cà Dei Frati produced its first vintage of Amarone 2008. The wine was fresh, bright, with a satisfying flavor of cherries and tar. The fruit undergoes a very long appassimento (the semi-drying of the grapes before pressing). Extremely pleasing wine. I will be interested to see how it develops.
That this wine was excellent comes as no surprise because the Cà Dei Frati has been making outstanding white wines for decades.
I also tasted the 2008 Dal Forno Amarone. Bright, deeply-colored ruby. Rich, full pleasing mingling of cherries and spices. Surprisingly silky texture. Long fruit-filled finish. The Price should you care to know: 250 Euros.
January 22 Slogging through the snow
I don two pair of tights, two pair of socks, my warmest trousers, three sweaters, a jacket, an overcoat, two pairs of gloves, three scarves, earmuffs, a hat and a heavy shawl and haul my suitcase the 20-some blocks to Mickey and Susan’s apartment. (all the cabs are already taken). Mickey has been unable to find the flight listed on the company’s website. I call again and get a nice woman who assures me that the flight does exist – it has been especially organized to take the passengers whose original flights to Paris was cancelled. Whew. Mickey and Susan open the Champagne (Perrier Jouet) and we wait for the Super Shuttle that will haul me to JFK.
January 13 to 21 Sherlockian Shenanigans
I am off to New York City for the annual Baker Street Irregulars dinner….and the ASH (Adventuresses of Sherlock Holmes) Wednesday dinner, and the BSI cocktail Party and the Gillette Luncheon and…to the Frick to see Vermeer’s Girl with The Pearl Earring and Franz Hals portraits with Priscilla and to go to the theatre, and to stomp around Chinatown sniffing teas with my pal Randall and to have a slap up Chinese lunch with my pal Shelia and to….).
The Frescobaldi wine company has kindly offered 6 bottles of Frescobaldi Chianti Nipozzano to the Doctor Watson Fund Auction. A very nice man, whom I happen to be sitting next to, buys the lot and then kindly re-donates 5 bottles, which are immediately auctioned off to other generous Sherlockians. I thank him profusely.
I had asked the Frescobaldis for the wine because in my book Bacchus at Baker Street I deduce that the Chianti mentioned in the Sherlock Holmes stories is indeed from Frescobaldi’s Nipozzano estate.
A terrible snow storm hits New York the evening before my flight home is due. My flight is cancelled. It snows all night. The wind howls and moans. The wind chill factor reaches Arctic levels and the television weather people gleefully tell us that if we are out in the cold for over a few minutes we risk permanent damage to any exposed skin. Oh me, Oh my.
Here are photos:
SHALL I OPEN A FLASK?
The Cellar Of Mr. Thaddeus Sholto
“May I offer you a glass of Chianti, Miss Morstan?
Or of Tokay? I keep no other wines.”
Mr. Thaddeus Sholto
The Sign of Four
Precious, opulent Hungarian Tokay’s place in the heart and cellar of Mr. Thaddeus Sholto is easily understood but the gentleman’s choice of Chianti may seem obscure. However, his criteria for selecting these two wines is the same: both have long and illustrious histories, have enjoyed prestigious patronage and both have bona fide medicinal value.
The towns of Florence and Siena, in the heart of the Chianti zone, have for centuries been centers not only of wine production but also of culture, art and politics. When Michelangelo was at Rome, he often wrote to his nephew to send him flasks of the wine from Florence. In the mid-fifteenth century Chianti wine inspired Leonardo da Vinci to design the distinctive straw basket that covers it’s flasks. Geothe sipped the wine on his Italienische Reise and Robert Browning made Elizabeth merry with tumblers full of the wine which she described as “an excellent kind of claret.”
As early as the 9th century the great Medical School at Salerno advised it’s patients: “Wine, if pure, gives you many benefits: it comforts the brain, soothes the stomach, removes noxious vapors from your body, relaxes a full belly, sharpens your wits, nurtures your sight and clarifies your hearing, strengthens your body and makes your limbs robust.” Of particular interest to the valetudinarious Mr. Sholto, the school recommends patients suffering from chest pains (angina pectoris) take a glass of red wine at intervals throughout the day.
But not all red wines are created equal. Bordeaux wines, the natural choice for an Englishman’s cellar, when destined for Britain were often adulterated with flavoring agents and with stronger, darker wines and spirits. Whilst this satisfied the demands of the market it would hardly suit Mr. Sholto’s need for purity and desire for salubrity.
Italy’s established vineyards succumbed to the ravages of phyloxera after those of France. Italians quickly grasped the opportunity fate had presented them and profited from France’s woes by planting vast tracts of new vineyard sites. From 1870 to 1890 Italy’s wine production doubled. In 1880 80% of the population made its living from vine-growing, winemaking and trading. These newly planted areas satisfied the demand for plonk whilst the established wine regions of Italy, with illustrious histories to preserve, maintained their traditional high standards. In Chianti, the most prestigious of the many excellent houses were (and are) Brolio, Antinori and Frescobaldi. It is from amongst these three producers that we shall find Mr. Sholto’s Chianti.
Baron Bettino Riscasoli, a true noblesse d’epee, inherited the Brolio estate in the heart of Chianti Classico in the mid-19th century. He zealously set about perfecting his wine and promoting international commerce. However, Brolio wines did not line Mr. Sholto’s cellar, for the Baron’s political aspirations supplanted his interest in oenology.
When he became prime minister of Tuscany in 1860, royalty and diplomats flocked to the region, many of whom subsequently developed a taste for Chianti. Mr. Henry A. Lagard, a minister in the service of Queen Victoria was amongst them. He wrote to the Antinori family from Venice in 1876: “Tell the Marchese Antinori that my friends and I prefer your wines to all the wines we’ve found here, including those of Bordeaux.”
The Antinori family has traded in wine since the 14th century and has owned vineyards in the Classico zone from the 16th century. The firm – in the modern sense – was created in 1895. Although the wine was not commercially available, Mr. Sholto could have imported it through a member of the diplomatic corp. But it was not an Antinori wine that he offered to Miss Morstan.
The house of Frescobaldi is as ancient and respected as that of Antinori. The family dynasty was founded in the 14th century; it’s fortunes derived from the lucrative trade in fabrics and from money lending. The Frescobaldis owned the Florentine bank that financed King Edward II’s lavish wedding celebration in 1307 at which, it must be added, 1,152,000 bottles of wine (Bordeaux) were consumed.
Frescobaldi di Nipozzano was the wine Mr. Sholto sipped and savored. This wine is different from the others we have discussed. It does not come from the Classico zone but rather from Rufina, the smallest sub-district of Chianti. Wines from this tiny area east of Florence are given equal status with those of the larger Classico zone, and, what’s more, they have a delicate traces of violets on the nose and palate that would undoubtedly appeal to Mr. Sholto’s refined taste. Further, the wines of Nipozzano were singled out in the 1800’s by Doctor Paola Mantegazza who advised convalescents to drink this tonico genuino.
Chianti and Tokay, therefore, form a perfect pair. In common they share an appeal to the sensual nature of poets and artists, a noble heritage, and each is imbued with exceptional medicinal qualities. Yet their flavor, weight and style offer quite different and distinct pleasures. Mr. Thaddeus Sholto chose his wines with supreme logic. They satisfy him completely – body and soul. Indeed, he need keep no other wines.