Vinitaly Frolics (25-28), ruminating on books (March 14), nice Chiarettos from Bardolino (March 11)
March 28 Vinitaly Fair Frolics
I have not included a note on every wine I tasted at the fair. Frankly, that would exceptionally boring. Here I offer some of the highlights.
Villa Bucci Verdicchio 2010 Bright, lively gold. Classic elderflowers on the nose. A pleasing salinity. The wine opens up on the palate like a blossom. Very satisfying. A long, flavorful finish.
Villa Bucci Verdicchio 1988 A well saturated yellow gold. The wine is beginning its decline. Still it has a certain sprightliness on the nose. On the palate, butterscotch and citron elements have settled in.
“This is the oldest year I have,” says Mr. Bucci. “It is a bit too old, I know. But it is interesting to taste.”
Bertani Secco-Bertani 2009 Ripasso. Bright. Deep-rose infused medium-ruby. A perfume rises from the glass: sour (in a good way) plums and wild cherries. These sensations carry through onto the palate. Silky texture. A nice weave of fruit on the dry finish. www.bertani.net
This is a limited edition Valplicello Ripasso. In Bertani terms this means around 25,000 bottles.
“It seems that ripasso is becoming too trendy,” says Mateja Gravner, a representative of the company. “So we decided to remind people what classic ripasso is. We are not saying that this is the only ripasso…only that this is what ripasso used to be like.”
1964 Bertani Amarone. Wide clear rim. A salmon pink sheen over delicate ruby. A fresh bright sensation on the nose, with a gentle perfume of mature wild cherries. On the palate the acidity is still alive – an amalgam of fresh tobacco and subdued cherries. Old but not decrepit.
2007 “3” from Poggio Verrano A dense center of near blue-black tones. An uplifting acidity on the nose. A satiny texture. Again,the tight weave. Firm fruit: black cherries, brambles, black currants – so tightly knit it seems like one integrated flavor. Very nice.
2007 Dromos L’Altro (Sangiovese, 12 months in barrique) Near opaque. Enters the mouth and expands- ripe, clean , mature cherry fruit , shot through with fine minerality. Relatively soft tannins.
“We don’t produce it every year,” says Francesco Bolla, owner of the estate. “Only those in which the conditions are right for Sangiovese. Our climate in the Maremma is very different from that of the classic Tuscan zones. And Sangiovese is a difficult grape…it is the first to blossom and the last to be harvested for us. It’s a bestiaccia.”
I am interviewed by a chap from CNN radio. He says that he will also slap a version of our interview up on YouTube.
That night we go to a drinks do that is supposed to be followed by dinner at a swank restaurant. Drinks start at 7. When at 9:20 the aperitivo period seems in no way ready to wind down, Michael and I leave. We go to the Osteria Carroarmato and have a plate of pasta. A couple is seated at our table and, because we are all sociable people, we begin to chat. We exchange names – they are Mario and Elena. Elena offers us chocolate pieces from her dessert. And at the end of the meal we discover that they are wine producers in Tuscany and have a stand at the fair. I hope their wines are decent because they are exceptionally pleasant.
I am striding through the fair and run into Bruno de Conciliis (www.viticoltorideconciliis.it ), a producer from Campania and a very witty man. He asks me to find a good Pas Dose for him. Hooray. I love having a mission.
I arrive at the Franciacorta Consortium stand an hour early – an Anglo-Saxon habit that is impossible to break. I am to tutor a tasting. Readers of these diaries know that I pull the cork on a good bottle of Franciacorta at least once a month.
The women who “man” the stand are all tall, slim and long-legged, with narrow ankles that taper in to impossible shoes (4 inch heels). I think back to my days in New York City when I, too, wore impossible shoes and snappy silk suits and important earrings. Now I wear flats, “vintage” silk suits and goofy earrings. It is a natural progression, I suppose.
I am interviewed for some national TV. We do this in Italian….lord knows how it came out. The interviewer seems happy.
Ten minutes before my tutored tasting is to begin I am told that instead of being a group of English-language journalists it will, instead, be made up mostly of Italian sommeliers. Well, there goes 5 pages of my speech. I am introduced by the director of the consortium. He then goes on to tell the assembled tasters things that are in another 3 pages of my speech. By the time he introduces me I realize I might as well throw away my speech and wing it. We have a good time…the 5 wines – from Colline della Stella, Monzio Compagnoni, Le Marchesine, Bellavista and Villa Crespia – show well.
“You perform just like an actress,” says one of my charges. I take this as a compliment.
I am racing through the fair to keep an appointment with Michael and I hear my name. It is Mr. Librandi.
“I haven’t seen you in a while,” he says. “Come and taste.”
Terre Lontane 2011 Librandi (A blend of Gaglioppo and Cabernet Franc) A lovely burst of frozen strawberries on the palate. Sprightly elements enliven the fruit. Nice. Price between 6 and 7 Euros in a shop. Good value. www.librandi.it
One evening about a year ago I was walking home and I heard my name, turned and there was Gianni. He told he had been commissioned to do a new label for a new Amarone.
“I know you are passionate about good Amarone,” he said. “Say something poetic.”
I said I would write something down. Here is what I wrote: Amarone is a wine that overflows with aromas and taste sensations. It concentrates and captures the sweet burst of cherry blossoms, swathes of summer sun, autumn’s smoky breezes and the mystery of winter evenings when dusk mingles with fog. Once wine lovers have tasted an Amarone, their perceptions will have been changed forever; they will always remember their initial surprise at the wine’s glorious abundance.
“You are my muse,” he said.
So, that is why I am here tonight to introduce him…in Italian. I really find it nerve-wracking to speak in Italian before a large group of people….but – hey I can do it when I must.
Gianni’s wife Iaia has kindly offered to take us back to Verona. Gianni has to stay after the dinner and autograph the poster version of the label for the guests. We arrive home after one.
I am at the fair by 9:30. I have to interview Cristina Geminiani – owner winemaker of Fattoria Zerbina at 10. I am exhausted.
I taste her 2007 Pietramora (97% Sangiovese, only produced in the best years) Elegance on the nose. You know you are in the presence of a fine wine. Elegant entry that rapidly expands in to juicy mature cherry/tart black berry fruit. Very satisfying. It would be a wonderful wine with a T-bone steak.
We swing by Fattoria di Corsignano – the estate of Mario and Elena, our chance dinner companions at the Carroarmato. One of the things that my book loving pals will appreciate is the estate’s back label. It is based on the bookplate of Elena Gallo’s dad. (Besides being a last name the Italian word “gallo” means rooster.)
“My father-in-law liked a comfy chair, a good book and a good glass of wine,” says Mario.
Their other labels are very attractive and Elena is very proud of the fact that one of them was chosen for a book on Italy’s most beautiful labels.
Chianti Classico Riserva Fattoria di Corsignano 2007 Vibrant cherry-ruby color. Full. Very silky on the palate, subdued cherry-near-the-pit fruit. Soft but persistent tannins. Rich. Nice, medium-long finish.
They also have a rooms available and organize cooking classes. Near Sienna. Very nice people. www.tenutacorsignano.it
Pas Dose a-go-go. I taste my way through many pas doses and find what I am looking for is the wine that was included in my tasting. The producer is Colline della Stella. www.collinedellastella.it The company specialized in making Pas Dose. Their enthusiastic consultant Giovanni A. takes us through the superbly balanced and elegant wines and I am sure that I have not only found the right wine for Bruno but also the right person. I know that they will get along.
I go to a sandwich kiosk. As I am standing there a handsome young Italian man says to be: “Aren’t you Patricia Guy (and he pronounces the name correctly).
“Why, yes,” I say.
“I read your books too much,” he says.
“No one can read my books to much,” I say.
We exchange cards and he gives me a jar of honey from the company he works for: ah, the wages of fame.
The same day, I am standing in line for the ladies bathroom. Someone comes across the room, drying her hands, and says. “Aren’t you Patricia Guy?” And then she starts a conversation. All the while I am thinking: I am now 5th in line….now I am 4th in line. Now I am nearly at the front of the line.
TIP: If you see someone you know or want to know please do not try to converse while they are waiting for the toilet. Believe me, they will not remember a thing you say.
I head over to my pal Linda’s book launch. This is a good thing as there has been no publicity for it. We drink Champagne and have a nice chat. I tell her that at 5 I have to be on a panel discussing Soave with food and that she should swing by…there will be TV and journalists there….rather than wasting her time sitting up in a secluded table hidden from the passing throng.
I go to Soave and am asked about “contamination” of Italian cuisine by foreign influences. I say I hated the way Italians used the word “contamination” and I point out the tomatoes and corn (as in polenta) are not indigenous to Italy but were brought over from the Americas….so maybe a little “contamination” wasn’t such a bad thing. Then we tuck into some really fine Japanese and Russian food. Yummm
I go to a drinks do given by Guerrieri Rizzardi (www.guerrieri-rizzardi.it) at a beautiful palazzo just down the street from us. Very nice and low key. I drink a glass of the company’s crisp Soave and then walk to the dinner-function that is on my program for this evening. By this time I have been running on too little sleep for much too long.
The dinner is to start a bit after 8. We are seated at around 9. By 10:20 (the second course has not yet arrived) I am too tired to remain and leave….even though my tablemates are very entertaining. At home I eat what remains of Michael’s Chinese takeaway and hit the hay.
Lunch at the Arnaldo Caprai’s Vinitaly restaurant. The food is prepared by Filippo Artioli from Trattoria da Oscar and the Sagrantino di Montefalco ice cream that is served with dessert is made by Tony Cafarelli, an ice cream making genius. This is the best meal that I have had during the fair. So often at Vinitaly the organizers of dinners try too hard….rather than keeping the menu simple and scrumptious, they try to add fiddly bits that only end up confusing the flavors.
Among the Arnaldo Caprai wines we taste:
Grecante Colli Martani Grechetto DOC 2011 Straw. Herbaceous/green gage plums. Fresh and appealing. Lively on the palate. A very satisfying wine. Because Caprai is so well known for Sagrantino, people forget sometimes that he also makes a jim-dandy white.
25 Anni Sagrantino di Montefalco DOCG 2008 Dark ruby. Rich, silky perfumes reminiscent of blackberries and a touch of raspberry. On the palate it has a knubbly texture like raw silk. Excellent wine. Long, flavorful finish.
“This is a great wine,” says our tablemate, The Professor. “But it needs seven or eight years to open up.”
I always visit Masciarelli ( www.masciarelli.it ). I enjoy the wines and, frankly, for me it is a pilgrimage to the shrine of Gianni Masciarelli. He was an extraordinary person.
Notes on some of the wines I tasted:
Marina Cvetic Montepulciano 2008 Deep dense ruby color, with a blue-black sheen. Mouth-filling. Texture like crushed velvet. Fruit. Bruised, ripe plums and plums simmered with cloves. Very appealing.
Iskara 2004 100% Montepulciano. Long skin contact. 5 years in bottle. Opague, with a deep-rose sheen. Cherries ripe and full. Vibrant on the palate. The price in a shop is around 23 Euros. This is a bargain.
March 24 The night before Vinitaly
I go to Piazza Bra to meet up with my pal Linda who is in town for the fair. As I am crossing the Listone I feel a tug on my arm; it is Ampelio Bucci.
“I had your wine last night,” I say. “We also had a ’95 Margaux – so it was in great company.”
“Come to my stand tomorrow,” says he.
March 23 Dinner at Claudio and Giuseppina’s….Hooray!
I love going to dinner at C&G’s because the food is always simple (and simply perfect) and the wine….ooooo.
Tonight I bring a 1995 La Poja from Allegini hoping for the same great results. Alas, it was not to be. The wine seemed tired. Ah, well. Ya win some, ya loose some. Fortunately, Claudio and Giusapina saved the day with a Villa Bucci Riserva 2004 and a 1995 Chateaux Margaux.
The latter was fruity, vivacious, satisfying…a wonderful wine…and still very young.
“Do we have any more bottles of this,” Giuseppina asked. When Claudio shook his head sadly, she shrugged: “Oh,well. That’s life.”
Several weeks ago I received a friendly email from a person I have seen a few times at wine functions. She is kind to her dog so I am disposed to like her. She asked if I would come to Umbria for an “international” dinner that was to be partially funded by the European Union, and as such, I had to submit my C.V. and be vetted, etc. I thought: wow, European Union….international….a vetting process for us high-powered journalists….wow. I replied that I would indeed look forward to the event.
I cannot fully explain why I thought that being a dog lover and being professionally competent were linked traits.
My presence at this dinner is what made it “international”.
Table Talk: Some yokel declared that he was shocked to see a kebab shop while he was visiting Bolzano.
“We have to defend Italian cuisines from these foreign influences,” he said, clearly expecting a hearty round of “Quite right”s.
I rolled my eyes. I thought: In Bolzano (in Alto Adige) wurstle (a.k.a. hot dogs), sauerkraut and strudel are served in every restaurant – not exactly what we think of as Italian food. I thought: tomatoes and corn (as in polenta) are not indigenous to Italy; they were introduced by foreigners. I thought: aren’t the Chinese credited with inventing the noodles that have become known as spaghetti? I thought: Italian restaurants are found in every corner of the globe – they do not need to be defended; they are doing alright by themselves. I thought: these attacks against kebab shops….hummm….could they really be veiled racism?
You may ask why I did not voice any of these thoughts. It is because I have learned that in provincial venues the locals are just waiting to sneer the name “McDonalds” whenever an American tries to say something sensible about food. I just wanted to get the dinner over with and be on my way.
The positive thing to come from this event is that during the 15 hours in travel time (riding on trains and buses and waiting for trains and buses) I was able to re-read The Witches of Eastwick by John Updike. I re-read this book every 5 years for the thrilling descriptions of landscape and – of course – it is a ripping yarn. I suppose it is a sign of age but more and more lately I am re-reading good books rather than wading into unknown prose. Last summer when I had a lot of waiting to do, I re-read 11 Elmore Leonard crime novels. His witty dialogue always makes me laugh. I think I may glide through the rest of the Updikes on my shelves then start on the Nabokovs and segue into the William Boyds. That ought to last me through most of 2012.
March 11 Bardolino – Lazise
We take the bus to Lazise, on Lake Garda, for the annual Bardolino tasting. I tasted through all the sparkling Chiaretto wines. These fruity pinks are ideal with lake trout and make sprightly lunch wines in general.
Two producers stood out: Casaretti (the kind of simple wine that could slip easily into a picnic hamper) and Valetti (easy, appealing fruit. Pastel pink in color, it reminds me of the Easter dresses I wore as a child. Wild strawberry on the nose and palate.)
We (the usual gang) dine at Ai Teatri (www.ristoranteaiteatri.it) . I taste a Sauvignon Blanc that I like – this is not an easy task. The wine is produced by Jermann. The pianist, Davide Foroni, is fabulous. He could find a job in a top club in New York in a heartbeat. (www.davidefornoni.it)
March 8 Durello surprise
I put a bottle of sparkling Durello in the fridge a week ago. I pull it out today with the intention of mixing it with peach juice for an aperitivo. Fortunately I taste the wine before I glug in the juice. It is nice.
Here is a note.
Le Macine Lessini Durello Brut. The wine is made with the metodo classico process: this means that the second fermentation takes place in bottle – just like in Champagne. Deep honey-yellow color. Clean, fresh nose. Nice weight on the palate. The flavor: a blend of liquid elderflowers and mineral-rich spring water. The medium-long finish is lively and flavorful. A bright and satisfying wine. Perfect for an aperitivo….but it would also fit nicely with a simple Spring or Summer lunch.
Our pal Graham wrote saying he might bring his Bentley over from the U.K. for Vinitaly. I hope he does. I love his car. Michael and I do not own (have never owned) a car. I let my license expire in 1987…so I am not A Car Person. However, Graham’s Bentley…..oooomyooooomy. The last time I was in it was years ago. We tooled down the highway, the trunk filled with Michael’s Port (his dad had sold the family home and the Port needed a new…ah…port). Graham pushed a button and the seat began to massage my spine. I fell in love with that car. Forgive me…BUT…I would live in a car like that for the rest of my days and be a happy woman.
We go to our bank, which has swell meeting rooms, for a press conference about Bardolino’s Big Tasting that is held in Lazise on the shores of Lake Garda every year at about this time. After the conference we adjourn to a side room to taste healthy Indian food prepared by the Celsius spa and hotel. (see a picture of their Christmas lobby in the December diary). It is wonderful…and it goes very well with sparkling Bardolino Chiaretto (even if, in theory, the food should be accompanied by Serious and Very Special Tea). Angelo, the PR man, says he will organize a dinner of this wonderful food for us at some point. Oh, I hope he does. But then, he also wanted to know if I would like to go to (what we used to call) Bombay to tutor a tasting. Think positive that either – or both – of these ideas take flight.
I am to tutor a tasting for foreign (that means English-speaking) journalists at Vinitaly. I taste the wines that are to be included in the tasting and then we – Beatrice (press coordinator), Monica (agronomist) and Marco (press office) – go to lunch at Solive (www.solive.it ). My-oh-my! I love coming to Franciacorta….but it would have been worthwhile to make the trip for the lunch alone. If you are in these parts, please give this restaurant a try: great service, homey but elegant atmosphere and Real Food. Their tiramisu is something close to – excuse me – orgasmic.
We talked about The Artist and Uggie, and food and films and dogs in general….what a swell bunch! I am so glad they have asked me to do this tasting-talk because I have been a fan of Franciacorta for years (ah, I wrote my first article about the zone in 1999) and it will be a pleasure to try to convey to the journos what makes this area and its wines special.
Gianni Burato, a local artist who did the cover for one of my books and who also does wine labels, rang and asked me to introduce him at an event during Vinitaly at which his special label for the Cantina di Negrar’s top Amarone will be unveiled. He tells me that I am his muse and asks me to be poetic. I tell him that I can only be poetic in English; in Italian I can only be blunt. He (clearly not fluent in any language but Italian) doesn’t quite get the meaning of what I have just said. I will do my best. My problem will be that I want to make the intro funny in the Anglo-Saxon way….rather than Serious and Poetic, which is the Italian way. Oh, well, it will be alright on the night.