APRIL 2016

First things first: Books

1-aprilThe very nice editor at Publishers Weekly came to the Adventuresses of Sherlock Holmes Spring lunch in New York and he brought me a book to read: Adam’s Rib by Antonio Manzini (Original Italian title: La Costola di Adamo). It is set in Aosta.  Yes, Aosta. The main character Rocco Schiavone is complex and intriguing and I will happily follow him into future adventures.

 

My pal Glenn from The Book Barn in Connecticut rounded up some books I wanted, and pals Kate and Ed brought them to New York for me.  These included several of the later Tony Hillermans.  I had asked Glenn to find the books Tony had written after I left New York in 1987.

 

When I returned to Verona I had the need to go and live in those books for a while. I read The First Eagle, The Thief of Time, Sacred Clowns and Talking God.  I really do love these books. Joe Leaphorn and Jim Chee are people I like to be with.  I like to be in the beautiful and strange landscapes that Tony describes so eloquently.   I have a few more, but I will save those for another time when I am feeling nostalgic for Big Sky country.

 

People who have never lived on the Great Plains or in the desert really cannot understand the way such landscapes make a person feel.  I’ll try to explain: you feel small and by feeling small you allow yourself to become part of a greater whole.  Also what at first seems austere and arid is, on closer examination, juicily alive with beauty.  In the plains and desert you have to really look and by looking you see worlds within worlds.  Well, it seems I cannot express this concept as well as I’d like.  All I can suggest is this: go to the desert in springtime when tiny red and yellow flowers sprout on the upturned arms of giant cacti OR stand in the middle of a vast wheat field that stretches right up to the flat horizon line above which is an equally vast blue, cloudless sky. Then think about how you feel.

 

April 22 THANK YOU, SUSAN

Susan H. takes Michael and me to dinner at the Vescovo Moro. The food was good, the wine flowed freely and the talk touched on some shared favorite things: old roses with heady scents, Indian and Asian spices, friendship, etc.  A lovely evening.

 

April 10 to 13 VINITALY

Cristina from Zerbina
Cristina from Zerbina

Yes, the world’s largest annual trade fair took place once again.  I will spare you a long series of tasting notes.  Instead I will just list the wines that Rang My Chimes.  Suffice it to say, I recommend all these wines and the producers who made them.  If you see the producer’s name on a wine list, buy the wine. You will not be disappointed.

There were of course many great wines at the fair that I did not taste for lack of time.

 

WINES THAT RING MY CHIMES

Fattoria Zerbina Sangiovese di Romagna “Pietramora” I tasted a flight of older vintages: 1990, 1997, 2004, 2007.  Generally speaking, the wines were round, between velvet and silk, with an amalgam of fruit so firmly mixed that red berry and cherry fruits merge into one flavor.

Fattoria Zerbina  Albana Passito “Scaccomatto” – a flight of older vintages: 1990, 1992,1996, 1997, 2001. General style: All the components mesh seamlessly – honey, flowers and a squeeze of lemon.

Podera Sant Cristofo  Petite Verdot  2013 – Full, rich, fruity, appealing

Villa Bucci Verdicchio 2013 – Full perfume, a fine weave of elegant apricot and elderflower and bright salinity.

Raffaella Bologna kissing my husband
Raffaella Bologna kissing my husband

G.D. Vajra – Barolo “Liugi Baudana” 2012. – Luscious, heady, satisfying. I could go on and on.

Braida Barbera d’Asti “Bricco della Bigotta” 2014 – Just as luscious as ever.

Braida Bricco del Ucellone 2014 – Creamy, rich and round – like chocolate covered cherries.

Marina Cvetic Trebbiano dìAbruzzo 2013 – Elegant balance between wood and fruit.

2-aprilI had a job to do during the fair: taste wines from South Africa for an Italian/English language website.  I am glad this assignment came up because it is unlikely I would have taken a morning to concentrate on South African wines under usual Vinitaly conditions. There were some nice bright whites and rich reds.  Producers I liked:  Diemersdal, Idiom, Morgenster and Ayam.

 

April 1 through 7 NEW YORK, NEW YORK

5-aaprilI am indescribably happy to be in New York. Many of my dearest friends live here and things have been organized so that The Adventuresses of Sherlock Holmes will have their Spring Meeting during my visit.  Hooray!

Things I did that gave me great pleasure (besides just seeing and talking to wonderful people whom I have known for decades):

I went to see the Broadway Musical Something Rotten.  Fabulous choreography, great dancing, an appreciative audience, two songs that stick with you – who could ask for more.

Here is a link to the opening number: Welcome to the Renaissance.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9fvmVhpc0fc

 

My pal Randall (friend since college) took me to The Modern, the Museum of Modern Art’s Michelin-starred restaurant. Extraordinary interior design, excellent food and the service was perfection. It was so perfect that it was almost creepy – it was like being served by the Stepford Wives. I got used to that pretty quickly.  Then we went to the Degas exhibit and selected paintings for our various imaginary country houses. Thank you, Randall.

 

6-april the hat sistersAfter the ASH lunch I went up to Guy and Julia’s (she is Kate’s sister). We convinced Julia to show us some of her collection of around 100 hats from the 20s, 30s, 40s and 50s.

 

 

Why I like the people of New York:

We went to the Transport Museum in Brooklyn.  My pal asked the security guard if the museum had wi-fi.

 

He replied: “Why? If we had wi-fi everyone would be looking at their phones and not reading the display signs and not learning anything about their city.”

 

We went to a Cuban restaurant.  I asked the waiter for a business card.  He returned with a baggie containing two cigars and three boxes of matches with the restaurant name and address.  (Havana at 94 Christopher Street havananyc.com).

 

Here is a quote from E.B. White’s Here is New York:

7-aprilOn any person who desires such queer prizes, New York will bestow the gift of loneliness and the gift of privacy.  It is this largess that accounts for the presence within the city’s walls of a considerable section of the population; for the residents of Manhattan are to a large extent strangers who have pulled up stakes somewhere and come to town, seeking sanctuary or fulfillment or some greater or lesser grail.  The capacity to make such dubious gifts is a mysterious quality of New York.  It can destroy an individual, or it can fulfill him, depending a good deal on luck.  No one should come to New York to live unless he is willing to be lucky.

 

MARCH 2015

1 with glenn shea I31 March BOOKS, GLORIOUS BOOKS
Kate and Ed come to Verona (from the USA) along with poet, pal and Book Barn (BookBarnNiantic.com) clerk, Glenn Shea, who brought me a satchel of 14 books. Among them was a copy of Dandelion Wine by Ray Bradbury. I love pre-owned books and this one had belonged to a soldier, who, when assigned to Viet Nam some 40 years ago, had had 400 books leather bound and shipped off with him. Holding this little volume, I felt a sweep of emotion. This soldier had loved Dandelion Wine as much as I did. It was as if – across space and time – we were sharing something profound. So thank you to Glenn for bringing it and thank you to Cleo C. Bresett Jr., the soldier who loved it and took care of it til the day he died.

 

We meet Ugo for a drink and I introduce Glenn as a poet. “You must read your poetry at my Thursday night poetry evening,” declares Ugo. So Glenn will perform his English-language poems to a group of Italian poetry lovers.

 

26 LUNCH WITH NEVILLE BLECH
Neville and I met while waiting for a bus that was to take us to a dinner in Valpolicella during the Vinitaly hoopla. We bonded big time in the 45 minutes we spent trailing after our keeper and decided to meet for lunch when the Big Fair was over. There is nothing like adversity to bring people together.

 

2. vinitaly22 March through 24 VINITALY RIDES AGAIN!
At Vinitaly, the world’s largest annual wine trade fair.

A New York PR guy sees me and says: It’s great to be here, isn’t it?

I reply: No. It is great to be in a place with a hammock and alot of sun. It is…okay to be…here.

 

 

Here are the producers I visited who made wines that rang my chimes – as we used to say.

 

For those unfamiliar with this expression: in this context, it means wines than not only give sensual pleasure but also give intellectual pleasure. In the best cases, it means: wines that life my spirits and make my heart sing.

 

Sparkling Wines:
Umberto Bortolotti’s (www.bortolotti.com) Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore Brut Rive di Col S. Martino “Castel de Donà” was one of the best sparkling wines I have ever tasted – and I love sparkling wines. It was like a classical-ballerina: powerful yet with lilghter-than-air grace. Absolutely exceptional. Full, fragrant, sorbet-like apricot fruit, with a sprightly infusion of steely minerality.

 

Maeli’s (www.maeliwine.it ) 2013 Fior d’Arancio – Moscato Giallo 100% fragrant, a burst of apricot sorbet on the middle palate. Then a minerally undertow. “It is like Dr. Jeckle and Mister Hyde,” says Elisa Dilavanzo, the manager of the estate. “It starts sweet but becomes dry.”

 

She recomends drinking it with raost rabbit with olives or eel mousse. Neither one of which is a mainstay on my table. I would like to try it with Nasi Goreng or other chill-hot Asian dishes.

KONICA MINOLTA DIGITAL CAMERAPasini San Giovanni 100% , mad from – yes – 100% Gropello. This is one of my favorite wines, year after year.

 

A different kettle of fish but none the less pleasing and satisfying is the Bardolino Chiaretto from Le Tende (www.letende.it ). I have followed this company’s wines for years and they always end up on my list of favorites when I taste Bardolinos.

 

 

White Wines:
KONICA MINOLTA DIGITAL CAMERAI made my annual pilgrimage to visit the Librandi (www.librandi.it) stand. Librandi makes superb wines from Calabrian indigenous varieties. One of my favorties is the Efeso Val di Neto Bianco IGT. It is made from 100% Mantonico. This vibrant, complex wine combines a steely note of minerality with a creamy sensation on the nose and palate. The flavor for me is an amalgam of delicate tones of nettle, elderflowers and toffee.

 

I stopped by the Di Lenardo stand (www.dilenardo.it) because everyone on the stand loves dogs and has a sense of humor! What a pleasure. I particularly liked their coppery Pinto Grigio – fresh, fruity and appealing.

Tramin (www.cantinatramin.it ) Nussbaumer 2013 Gewürztraminer is a Gewürztraminer for grownups. I also tried the 2007 vintage of this wine. Deep yellow, fresh, intriguing…it was a wine that took me to a higher level. Superb.

 

5Roncsoreli’s (www.roncsoreli.com) 2013 Friulano is one of the best I have ever tasted – good structure, an attractive salinity over apricot fruit. The palate follows the nose.

 

 

I asked Tania Princic, in charge of export sales for Roncsoreli, what she would serve with this wine. Her answer: Prosciutto San Daniele.

 

Let me go on record as saying I really like Friulano. I even liked it back in the days when it was called Tocai. My taste identifiers for Friulano: a slight saline note on the nose alongside scents of wildflowers, good structure and creamy texture. I often find ghosts of apricot and crème patisserie.

 

Red Wines:
Roncsoreli’s Scioppettino 2009 had all of the characterisitcs of classic Schioppettino: dark ruby color, full bodied, with a soft black pepper tone over richly textured fruit flavors, which include wild blackberries, raspberries and blackcurrants.

 

The Scioppettino grape variety appeared on the Friulian wine scene around 1300. It is primarily cultivated in the hills and foothills of the commune of Prepotto. In its early days, Schioppettino was more commonly known as Ribolla Nera.

 

In the years following the outbreak of phylloxera (a vine louse that infected many of the vineyards of Europe in the late 19th and early 20th century), Schioppettino lost ground to heartier-high-yielding varieties. The 1970s and 1980s saw renewed interest in Scioppettino, and in 1992, it joined the list of varietal wines made in the Colli Orientali del Friuli DOC zone.

 

The lesson is over, we can now return to the diary…

 

Cristina in her new specs
Cristina in her new specs

Fattoria Zerbina (www.zerbina.com) Il Marzeino 2009 (a blend of Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon, with a bit of Merlot, syrah and ancelottaA velvety sensation on the nose. So fresh and youthful with a rich burst of rond cherry-like fruit on the middle palate. Fruity filled finish. A very atrractive wine.

 

Zerbina’s Torre di Ceparano Sangiovese di Romagna 2011. Elegant with a juicy soul. Lively on the palate. A long flavorful finish.

Ca Lustra’s (www.calustra.it) Moro Palo 2011 is a blend of Merlot and Carménère, with a bit of Cabernet. This is an exceptionally nice entry-level wine – satisfying and full on the palate.

 

Sabrina T.
Sabrina T.

Tedeschi’s (www.tedeschiwines.com) Capitel dei Nicolo Valpolicella 2013. Fragrant, almost perfumed. Very attractive.

“Some of the grapes undergo a light drying before pressing,” says Sabrina Tedeschi. “The Valpolicella zone is made up of many styles and price ranges. The zone is also comprised of many different types of soils and exposures – not all of which are capable of making Amarone,” Sabrina continues. “We are going against the trend a bit: while others are making more Amarone, we are increasing the production of our Valpolicella.”
Brava.

 

Another producer who is bucking the trend is Agostino Vicentini (www.vinivicentini.com/ he is perhaps best known for his superb Soaves). His Valpolicella Superiore Palazzo di Campiano 2011 is an excellent, satisfying wine.

 

“This is Valpolicella like it used to be – no semi-dried grapes,” says Agostino. “We use properly ripened grapes – not immature, not overripe. We can do this because there are only 4 bunches on each vine. It also helps that the vineyard is 450 meters above sea level.”

 

922 GRAVNER BOOK PRESENTATION – Michael did the English translation!

 

 

21 THAI SPAGHETTI WITH THE CHIEVO SUPPORTERS CLUB

 

KONICA MINOLTA DIGITAL CAMERA15 ONE BOOK FINISHED ANOTHER BEGUN

MARCH 2014

March 29 Happy Birthday Francesco and Giovanni

KONICA MINOLTA DIGITAL CAMERAWe head to the Osteria Carroarmato to celebrate the 18th birthday of Ugo and Steffie’s twins.  Twenty some friends and relatives at a long wooden table. Plate after plate of sliced meats, vegetables, polenta, gorgonzola, lots of happy chatter. It felt wonderful to live in Italy at that moment.

March 26- 30 Tasting at the Vinitaly wine Competition.

KONICA MINOLTA DIGITAL CAMERAI decide to share this honor with Matteo, one of my tasting students.  He will take two days and I will do the rest.  The idea of 4 full days of tasting from 9 to 5 just does not appeal to me at the moment.  Thank goodness they use electronic tablets and spare us judges the fatigue of adding up columns of figures and filling out forms.

We average around 44 wines a day, with 3 to 4 minutes for each wine. 

What I do when I am not tasting.
What I do when I am not tasting.

Here is the tip I gave Matteo:  Place the glass that you want to be filled on the right hand side of your table and put your hand lightly on the base of the glass.  That way the sommelier can fill it without having to lean over the table and sort through the confusion of your 12 glasses. The sommelier will appreciate this courtesy. 

I met a fan!  Another judge had read and appreciated one of my books and told me so.  It never fails to please me when someone says he likes what I have written. I invited him along to my pal Annalisa’s osteria, the Carroarmato, for a book presentation and we stayed for dinner. 

I have taken a look at his website and now I am his fan! Here is the address of his blog:  www.AlfonsoCevola.com. Wonderful photographs and gentle, interesting commentary. A lovely and amusing man. 

March 21 Interviewing Andrea Camilleri

3Camilleri, for those who may not know, is Italy’s best loved author and the creator of the wry and observant Sicilian commissario, Salvo Montalbano.  I interviewed him for Publishers Weekly at his apartment in Rome.

Here are two rather nice quotes from Camilleri that I won’t put in my article:

“When I don’t have any ideas I might write a letter, for example, to a man I’ve just encountered at a kiosk. It’s a letter I know I’ll never send, but it serves as an exercise. Without that, you get stuck. What’s behind writing? It’s not that the artist writes when he gets inspiration — it’s the work of each day.”

5“Two great masters for me are Hammett and Chandler.  Perhaps Hammett above all because of his behavior during the Communist Witch Hunt in the 1950s. He ended up going to jail for his views.  Now, this was a man who drank nearly a bottle of whisky a day. So going to jail for him was like having a double sentence. It took a great deal of courage.”

Camilleri very kindly signed books for Stefania (who made her family take their last vacation to Sicily so that she could visit all the sites where the Montalbano TV  series is filmed) and for Susanna (whose favorite book is Il birraio di Preston.)

Susanna was very pleased when I told her that that book was very significant in the development of Montalbano.  In fact without it there might have never been a Montalbano.  You see, Camilleri was stuck when writing Il birraio di Preston so he decided to set himself a “creative exercise”: writing a mystery novel.  He wanted to see if he could write a linear plot – going from chapter one through to the end and linking each chapter logically.  So there you have it, Montalbano started out as a remedy for writer’s block.

March 20 Candy for Camilleri

4My husband went to a small hand-made chocolate shop to buy a box of candy to take to Camilleri. (I had done my homework and discovered that he had not drunk wine since 1947 – yes, 1947.) The shop assistant asked my husband if the chocolates were for a woman and he told her they were for Andrea Camilleri.

 

Shop Assistant (in awe): He’s one of those people that you think don’t really exist.

Michael: You mean like a mythological creature?

Shop Assistant: Yes, exactly!

 We take the bus to the airport to see the unveiling of the giant posters advertising Soave that the Consortium has put up.  Michael and I helped them tidy up their English slogan. Here are photos of 2 of my favorite Italian Journalists/bloggers.  Carlo G. and Maria Grazia, who looks rather fetching in her new purple glasses. Her site: www.soavemente.net   

KONICA MINOLTA DIGITAL CAMERAKONICA MINOLTA DIGITAL CAMERA

March 16 Dancing to the Tune of Bardolino

The annual Bardolino thrash. Great fun, good band, nice eats, swell people.

March 11 Greek Fans – Wow!

KONICA MINOLTA DIGITAL CAMERAA couple of years ago I got an email from Anistasia K., a teacher at the Iiona School of Music in Greece.  She was bringing some students to the Veneto and wanted to meet with me.  She uses my wine articles in her English classes.  I was unable to meet them on that occasion.  BUT SHE’S BACK!  She is bringing another group and we agree to meet in Verona.  She told me one of her students is writing a thesis comparing Chateau Yquem and Amarone.  My mind boggled, particularly when I was introduced to the 14 year old who is writing the piece.  What a lively, intelligent boy.  All of the students were enthusiastic and polite.  It was a real pleasure to meet them.

March 8, 9, 10  Tergeno IGT Ravenna Bianco 2012 from Fattoria Zerbina and Lunch

Cristina Geminani of Fattoria Zerbina
Cristina Geminani of Fattoria Zerbina

I drank a glass of this blend of indigenous white varieties (and just a touch of Chardonnay) with my lunch three days running.

It has the body and delicately fruity flavor to go with: a salad of dry, shredded meat, olives and artichokes dressed with lemon and oil; rice salad with ham and peas; and breaded chicken cutlet.  A very satisfying wine.  The back label suggests that is goes well with seafood and some kinds of raw fish, liver-based dishes and cheeses, or as an aperitif.  All of this sounds right to me.

MAY 2013

1 - michelle's coverMichelle Lovric has a new book for intelligent children out. It is called The Fate in the Box and, like all her books, it is set in Venice
and is chocked full of juicy historical tidbits.  The first line is:  “The girl who climbed the ramp knew that there were only two
 possibilities at the top of the tower. Life or sudden death.”  That made me want to read more. 
(www.michellelovric.com)

 



May 31 to May 1 THE DREADED LURGY –  Ill Ill Ill

For the last few weeks I have been ill: coughing fits waking me up every two hours…unable to draw breath.  I was too congested and exhausted to concentrate, so, I could not read or do puzzles.  All I could do was languish on the sofa, TV remote control in hand.  During these last weeks I have  watched programs about hunters of auctions, alligators, undersea treasures, ghosts, UFOs, river monsters and dinosaur fossils. And I have learned the secrets of: the pyramids, the aliens among us, the Aztecs, the Mayans, mummies, and Australian Air Port Security.

Why has this lurgy lasted so long?  Well, at first I thought it was a simple cold and I waited for it to just go away.  Then I went to the doctor, who prescribed a course of antibiotics that did absolutely no good.  I went back and she subscribed another course of a different antibiotic, which did little good.  Then, thank the Lord, I went to a specialist who said: NO MORE ANTIBIOTICS and prescribed a 10 day course of medication that seems to be working. 

KONICA MINOLTA DIGITAL CAMERADuring this period I had to cancel all my trips (to Emilia Romgna, Lombardy, Trentino, The Marche, plus Veneto events). I had to cancel two opportunities to be a tasting panelist and I had to cancel a lesson with my tasting student.  The only thing I did: one article about Donnafugata, the Sicilian winery; I worked on it a scant hour a day for 10 days. I couldn’t stay at my desk for longer than that. 

My favorite quote from the article is from The Leopard, written by a Sicilian Prince, Giuseppe Tomasi di Lampedusa.  In the book he refers to the area where Queen Carolina stayed while in Sicily as Donnafugata, which literally means “fleeing woman”.  Lampedusa  describes the landscape there as “aridly undulating to the horizon in hillock after hillock, comfortless and irrational, with no lines that the mind could grasp, conceived apparently in a delirious moment of creation; a sea suddenly petrified at the instant when a change of wind had flung the waves into a frenzy.”    Wow! 

The web-radio interview I did on April 23 aired: Episode 17 (I start at around 43 minutes in.  At 48:25 the topic is dogs.  Favorite wines – 55:29, Thomas Jefferson and the American character -57:50, Osteria life – 1:01:30, and a mention of The Baker Street Irregulars -1:03:02).

Part 2 Episode 18 (I begin to speak at around 12:00 into the show, 16:29 – Sherlock Holmes, 18:15 Italian TV, 22:42 – Michael speaks, 23:15 – Kansas, 25:20 – books,  27:00 – Matching Wine with Asian Foods. ) on http://www.pikaradio.com/ 

It was recorded at the beginning of this lurgy adventure and my voice is a quarter octave lower than usual.

For those who want more wine info, feel free to whiz down to the April diary, which includes the highlights of Vinitaly, the world’s largest annual wine trade fair.

In the meantime, I have decided to put in an essay I wrote last year about Sherlock Holmes, Italians, Florence, Tibet, the history of the circus and so much more.  This will give you a little insight into Sherlockian Scholarship.

Sherlockian Scholarship must be fully researched and the historic elements must be verifiable. The writer then takes all these interesting threads of history and weaves them around an hypothesis that includes Sherlock Holmes. 

 A Hiatus Hypothesis: 

in which Sherlock Holmes gets the whip-hand

4

The period in Mr Sherlock Holmes’ life that has come to be known as “The Great Hiatus”, has provided excitable scholars with decades of merry meandering, allowing them, as it does, to fill any gaps in the narrative with their own fervid longings. 

The questions they ponder are these: how did the great detective cross national 
borders without attracting undue attention; what did he do for money; how did he 
maintain his anonymity during his years of traveling; and how did he make his way 
from Florence to Tibet? 

Elaborate theses have been constructed, many of which have our hero depending upon his brother Mycroft (sometimes in his role as government advisor) for financial and logistical assistance. Excited by train timetables and whiffs of espionage, these theorists focus their attention upon constructing complicated – if precarious – scenarios that never quite answer all the questions asked.

I, however, should like to throw light upon an unchartered path, one that satisfies all these queries neatly, and – if need be – incorporates the popular “secret mission” theory.  Furthermore, it allows Holmes the autonomy he would have preferred and accounts for the difference in his demeanour, references and skills before and after his adventure at Reichenbach.  

 Before Reichenbach the Italians who are given a glancing mention are the painter Salvator Rosa and the famous fiddle makers, Stradivarius and Amati. The stories that actually feature Italians appear in the chronicle of adventures after his return to London in the spring of 1894. Many of the Italians who play an active role are scoundrels or scallywags. Encounters with these unsavoury individuals allow Mr Holmes’ to display his knowledge of Italy’s secret societies of villainy, as well as the tendency to Machiavellian twists and turns of mind that underpin the Italian mentality. 

7 Sh informal roustaboutThen there is the language issue.  Whilst Mr Holmes spouts French and German from his first recorded adventure, he does not display skills in Italian until after his return. In “The Adventure of the Red Circle, set in 1902, after some initial confusion, he identifies the code flashing in the darkened window as being in Italian. 

                My companion gave a sudden chuckle of comprehension. “And not a very obscure cipher,

                Watson,” said he.  “Why, of course, it is Italian!” 

However, his language skills are not precisely fluent. Whilst he quickly recognizes that the word attenta means beware and vieni means come, he hesitates over pericolo.

               Pericolopericolo–eh, what’s that, Watson? Danger, isn’t it.”

Though why he would turn to Watson for confirmation of this fact is unclear as the good doctor has demonstrated no comprehension of the language in question.  Watson’s remark on “a thousand pretty Italian exclamations pouring from [Mrs Lucca’s] lips” hardly leads one to the conclusion that he understood the meaning of this joyous patter, rather he seems to be interpreting the attractive young woman’s intentions from her gleaming dark eyes, her capering dance and clapping hands.   One might conjecture that Mr Holmes was having a bit of fun with Watson here. 

There are those who will point out that the only time Mr Holmes chooses to disguise himself as an Italian (in the chronicles as related by Watson) occurs in “The Final Problem”.  He assumes the guise of a priest in order to elude Moriarty’s henchmen on his way to his fateful appointment at Reichenbach Falls.  However, he does not demonstrate any level of fluency in the language. Watson, after all, describes him not as speaking Italian but rather as speaking “broken English”. 

And, finally – and most significantly, it seems to me –, the Great Detective only frequented Italian restaurants after his return to London in the spring of 1894.  He did not issue invitations for Watson to join him at Goldini’s or Marcini’s until he had tasted the delights of Italian cuisine first hand. This cannot be put down to a surge in Italian immigrants opening eateries in the capital city, for there have been Italian restaurants in London since 1803, when Venetian “Joseph” Moretti opened the first Italian Eating House, off Leicester Square. By1886 there were so many Italians working in the catering trade that The Italian Society of Mutual Aid for Hotel and Restaurant Employees was established.

These and other changes in Holmes indicate that his stay in Italy lasted for at least several months and that indeed the effects of this stay continued to influence the Great Detective for the rest of his life. 

Now let us examine Holmes’ character and the circumstances in which he found himself in May 1891, and how these two threads intertwine in Fate’s great tapestry.

Whilst Holmes sat sipping his espresso at a Florentine café after his harrowing experience at the falls, he was well aware that he was still a wanted man – and that Moriarty’s henchmen would be quick to act should they get wind of his survival.  Where could a man without money or sufficient documentation, a man with the need to submerge his identity, find work and a degree of security? 

6 basil the indianThe answer is as natural and as inevitable as rain: he would join the circus.  Indeed, it was his experience under the Big Top that literally set him on the road to Tibet.

That Holmes was already familiar with the circus goes without saying.  After all an Englishman, Mr. Philip Astley (1737-1836), parlayed his equestrian talent into an illustrious and lucrative career in show business by adding jugglers and clowns to fill out the bill and thus earning the status of The Father of the Modern Circus. 

In the very first case narrated by Watson, A Study in Scarlet, Holmes demonstrated his knowledge of circuses when a babbling crone calls to claim a lost ring for her daughter.  It is established that the ring was found on the Brixton Road and the woman lived in Houndsditch.  She then goes on to burble: “If it please you, she went to the circus last night along with –,” she says.

“The Brixton Road does not lie between any circus and Houndsditch,” said Sherlock Holmes sharply. 

Let me quell those of you who would claim that the circus in question refers to a roundabout, such as Picadilly Circus, by pointing out that, according to the Victoria and Albert Museum website (www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/v/victorian-circus/), “in the mid-19th century there were hundreds of circuses operating in Britain”.  In London some of these did not perform under a tent or in the open air but rather had fixed venues in converted traditional theatres.

trapeze ladies 1890 Lithograph by Calvert Litho.The popularity of such entertainments spread and by the 1890s there were an estimated 200 travelling circuses in Continental Europe. Some of these were enormous in scale such as Buffalo Bill’s Wild West Show, which performed at venues in Liguria, Piedmont, Emilia, the Marche, Umbria, Tuscany and the Veneto. When it played the Roman Arena in Verona in April of 1890 journalist and novelist Emilio Salagari wrote in the local newspaper of the special train that was nearly a kilometre in length that carried five hundred horses and eight hundred roustabouts, musicians and featured performers, such as Annie Oakley and Sitting Bull, to town. 

The Barnum and Bailey Circus also spent five years touring Europe (1897 to 1902) and played venues in Italy. It boasted over 1000 employees and, it too, had a special train to move its gear, personnel and animals. Others circuses and menageries were smaller, but they also were afforded a liberty of movement that would be impossible in contemporary life: border checks, bureaucratic paperwork and quarantine precautions were not enforced until after World War I. 

What better way to slip into anonymity whilst still having the stimulation of a varied scene and the security of keeping on the move. The circus also offered Mr Holmes three square meals a day, a bed, an unparalleled opportunity to study the human condition (including, perhaps a passing acquaintance with Neapolitan secret societies), plus a small stipend to keep him going until he could safely contact his brother Mycroft for additional funds, should he choose to do so.

He could pick up a bit of Italian but could also communicate in French, German or English, depending on the provenance of his fellow circus folk, among whom there has always been a certain fluidity where nationality was concerned. It was a Geman, Carl Magnus Hinné (1819-1890), who set up circuses in Poland, Denmark and Russia. In Scandinavia, the roots of the circus are associated with the French Gautier family, whilst Italian Antonio Franconi, a former employee of Philip Astley, who came to be known as the Father of the French Circus. 

The names of the circuses themselves shifted with the political wind: Giuseppe Chiarini’s travelling circus was sometimes known as The Royal Italian Circus, at others as The Royal Spanish Circus, and the nationalities attributed to its performers shifted easily from English, to French, Belgium or Italian, depending on what would be most impressive for the audience of a particular venue. Whilst in the United Kingdom in the 1900s, British circus folk often found it easier to get work if they performed under exotic Italian nom de cirque. 

Mr Holmes was singularly suited to circus life.  One need only note his “human love for admiration and applause” (“The Six Napoleons), his “amazing powers in the use of disguises” (“A Scandal in Bohemia) and his grasp of showmanship and appreciation of drama.  Consider also his “love of all that is bizarre and outside the conventions and humdrum of everyday life” (“The Red-headed League).

 As to his role within the circus we must make an educated guess. Ring Master would attract too much scrutiny by the public. His tall, lean frame would not be ideal for the trapeze. The position of clown offers an easy opportunity to conceal his features and form, however, I believe he would eschew this role for the very reason that it is too obvious. That, and the fact that, as Watson noted in The Hound of the Baskervilles: “I have not heard him laugh often, and it has always boded ill to somebody.”

Of all the jobs available he had three real options: first, he could become a roustabout; second, a musician (although the violin seldom features in circus parades); or third, and the most likely option, he could assume the role of wild animal trainer.  

Animal acts date from around 1831, with the best known of the early proponents being the Frenchman Henri Martin (1793-1882), who performed with lions and elephants. His training style, which became standard in Europe, was to treat the animals with kindness as if they were household pets.

Mr Holmes’s “strong, masterful personality” (“The Solitary Cyclist”) and his “almost hypnotic power of soothing” (“The Red Circle”) could have effectively been put to use lulling ferocious jungle creatures into obedience. We also have Mr Holmes own assessment of his character: “Surely no man would take up my profession if it were not that danger attracts him.” (“The Three Gables”) This love of danger is as much a professional requirement for wild animal training as it is for detecting.

In addition, Watson noted some telling comments made by Holmes in “The Adventure of the Veiled Lodger”, a case that occurred in 1896, after Mr Holmes’ return from his sojourn abroad.  In this tale, Mr Holmes demonstrates a certain affinity for the, in Holmes’s words “very fine North African lion” named Sahara King.  “Look at it from the lion’s point of view,” he urges Watson. This demonstrates clearly the Great Detective’s intimacy with and sympathy for savage beasts. 

Let us now explore the ways in which Mr Holmes’ circus experience led him to Tibet. 

The potent fascination of the circus does not depend upon spoken language rather it relies on spectacle.  Crafty circus managers were quick to act upon this and set about taking their shows to the most remote corners of the world.  In a sense, travelling circuses can be considered the first truly global enterprise.

Giuseppe Chiarini, whom I have already mentioned, spent a good portion of his life taking his circus to Latin America, Australia, New Zealand, Tasmania and the United States. He also did several extensive tours of Asia, visiting Singapore, Japan, Java, Siam, Burma, Malaysia, Batavia (today Jakarta), Ceylon (today Sri Lanka), Korean, French Cochin China (today Vietnam) and India. In many instances Chiarini’s was the first circus the local populace had ever seen and as such his troupe performed for and was feted by heads of states. In Bombay (today Mumbai) they entertained many a maharaja. In Siam they performed before the king and his extensive harem.  In Tokyo the show impressed the Emperor Misuhito, as well as other Japanese nobility, politicians and wealthy businessmen. Gentle Reader, if one were looking for access to the highest realms of power and the potential for political intrigue…well, I’ll say no more. 

The circus provided Holmes with everything he needed during his “Great Hiatus”, as well as giving him the means to make his way to Tibet. Whether he followed China’s silken path or the saffron scented road from India, it was the circus that provided the vehicle.

 

 

 

 

 

APRIL 2013

KONICA MINOLTA DIGITAL CAMERA30 April  A cough, a cold, it’s the end of the road….

I must finish an article about Frescobaldi for a magazine today.  I am struggling through a miasma of cold symptoms.  As soon as it is finished, I will go to bed—for days.

29 April Cold Comfort

My cold and ragged, hacking cough remain…Michael demands that I go the pharmacy and stop fiddling around with home remedies – cinnamon and honey, in this case.

23 April I am interviewed

I get a Skype call from a radio station based in Colorado. My cousin Susan has put them in touch with me.  We chat about everything…Thomas Jefferson, phylloxera, Italian TV, treatment of dogs, wine trends…it was fun.  I am coming down with a cold…so my voice nearly gives out after an hour.

KONICA MINOLTA DIGITAL CAMERA21 April A stick, a stone, a slice of corn pone

We go to San Giovanni Lupatoto to Ugo’s poetry reading.  Diane Peters (www.harpandson.com.com) accompanies the reading on her harp.  Then she and her jazz guitarist husband have a musical interlude. She dedicates a song to me. Jobim’s The Waters of March ( A stick, a stone, it’s the end of the road….)  It is the first time I have heard all the English language verses…and so it is the first time the song made sense. Below is a link to Susannah McCorkle singing her version.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6MNknFy2gdQ

19 April  Another  Porn Stars Emerge

I receive an email from the publicist of another porn star suggesting that I might want to write about the wines she produces.  I pitch the idea only to discover that it has already been done and the article about her is one of the most searched-for articles on the website.  This surprised me. Although I now realize it shouldn’t have. After all two of the most goggled words are wine and sex.

18 April   Voting for new Italian leader…someone writes in the name Rocco Siffredi.

16 April  Ugo’s Birthday Hoopla & A visit to Roberto Bravi’s Studio

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7 through 10 April Vinitaly – The World’s largest Annual Trade Fair

Sunday morning at 9:30 I am at the fair to interview Lamberto Frescobaldi…a very nice man.  My favorite moment is when I ask him if he ever thought of doing something else rather than going into the family business.  He says that he was seriously tempted to join the Carabinieri (the Italian Military Police).

He also happily consented to be photographed with my book Bacchus at Baker Street.  Why? Because in the book I talk about all the wines and spirits mentioned in the Sherlock Holmes stories.  There is only one Italian wine and it is Chianti.  In my book I “prove” that the Chianti in question was produced by Frescobaldi!  “Now, I’ll have to reread all the stories,” he says, smiling into the camera.

I go to a dinner in the Roman Arena in Piazza Bra.  Pretty wonderful venue.  Unfortunately it is cold and rainy out.  What might have been magical becomes only interesting….but that isn’t bad.

We sit at our table huddled in our overcoats.  I sit next to Vittorio Fiore, winemaker extraordinaire.

“The last time I ate with my coat on must have been when I was 12years old during the war,” says Vittorio.

The next morning I present some US sparkling wines at a tasting sponsored by Euposia magazine (Domaine Ste Michelle, Shramsberg,  J Vineyards and Winery).  I am happy to say that the wines show well for the crowd of 50 Italian buyers, press and sommeliers.

 

KONICA MINOLTA DIGITAL CAMERAThen I race off to interview Porn King Rocco Siffredi and Jarno Trulli (Former Fomula One Driver) on their joint venture: http://www.wine-searcher.com/m/2013/04/sex-drives-italian-wine-venture

How can you interview him knowing what he does for a living,” breathless Italians ask me about the Siffredi interview.

 

“I have never seen one of his films,” I reply, “So I don’t have any unnecessary baggage. For me he is just the man in front of me at the moment: intelligent, pragmatic, with a sense of humor.”  Oh, and remarkably fit!!!and tan!!!!

 

KONICA MINOLTA DIGITAL CAMERAI interview Jose Rallo of Donnafugata.  I ask her what she is reading at the moment (she is a great reader). Among her favorites: American Pastoral by Philip Roth.  “Have you read I Married A Comunist?” she asks.  “You must.”

 

 

 

KONICA MINOLTA DIGITAL CAMERA1996 Scaccomatto from Fattoria Zerbina. A passito made from Albana grapes in Emlia-Romagna.  Vibrant and luscious as ever.

 

We run into Roberta Costantini.  She has published an e-book, a selection of short stories called Kamasutra Per I Single e Altri Racconti (The Kamasutra for Singles and Other Stories). I love the title… You can find it on the web.

 

 

My notes from the Press Conference
My notes from the Press Conference

Michael and I head to a mind-numbingly boring press conference. Why? Because Michael wanted to go because he knows the people who organized it and there is the promise of Greek and Bulgarian food afterwards.  He has been looking forward to trying Bulgarian cuisine for weeks, since the invitation arrived.  I drew pictures during the press conference because everything was said at least twice (once in Bulgarian or Greek and then in Italian). Due to remarkable organization…no reservation has been made for us.  Michael is livid…it is best not to get between a thin, hungry man and his chow.  Michael is what the Italians call a buon forchetta (a good fork), which means he enjoys eating.

 

I save the day….or rather the Franciacorta Consortium folks I happened to be standing next to in line to get into the fair come to the rescue.  They kindly extended an invitation to us if we happened to be free around noon.  Now we were.

 

KONICA MINOLTA DIGITAL CAMERAThe Franciacorta consortium have organized a truly wonderful presentation/lunch. Franciacorta wines are matched with different tidbits.  Excellent information, good wines, fabulous food.  I really don’t think it could have been better.  I love Franciacorta, well all well-made sparkling wine really, and their presentation was a high point of the fair.  Franciacorta is a zone in Lombardy, the wines are made with the metodo classic (aka. The Champagne method), this means that the second fermentation takes place in bottle.

 

A Peruvian friend and his Italian wife are thinking about importing sparkling wines into Peru. They have already investigated Franciacorta and Prosecco.  I tell them that they must also consider  Trentodoc.  This is the name of DOC sparkling wines made in Trentino.  He is not interested…so I insist that he stop at the Ferrari stand with us.  He is blown away by the wines…. Then they give him a glass of Gulio Ferrari Riserva 2001– whispers of white peaches, gusts of pears, a sparkling sprinkle of minerals. Elegance and structure evolving, intriguing. A wonderful texture: fine yet interesting.  A shimmering, long clean finish, an idea of lanolin, a vibration of fruit (white peaches).  I love this wine.

The Peruvian is now firmly behind Trentodoc.  Hooray.  We visit a few more producers.

Michael and I whiz by Marina Thompson’s stand for our annual English-language book exchange.  Both Marina and I are voracious readers.  Vittorio Fiore’s stand is right next door so we stop by to taste with him.

KONICA MINOLTA DIGITAL CAMERA We taste his Castelluccio Sauvignon Blanc Ronco del Re 2007 fermented in barriques. “This wine expresses itself only after 5 years,” says Vittorio.  People who know me well, know that I am not a fan of most Sauvignon Blancs.  This wine, however, is an exception because it shows Fiore’s style: elegance and balance.

We taste the reds:  Le More 2007 (Sangiovese), Ronco dei Ciliegi 2007 (Sangiovese), Ronco di Ginestro 2007 (Sangiovese) and Massicone 2008 (Cabernet Sauvignon).  

“These are all wines that can easily reach 15 years,” says Vittorio.

 

We then taste his Poggio Scalette wines.

Poggio Scalette 2011 Chianti Classico. Vibrant, saturated dark-ruby. Nose: floral, with raspberry notes. On the palate a lush overripe strawberry note dominates the attack.  Then in rolls a wave of other red berry fruits. A lovely wine!

KONICA MINOLTA DIGITAL CAMERAWe visit one of my favorite producers Franco Zanovello (info@calustra.it), who is making a wine in Sicily (besides owning an estate in the Colli Euganie.)  We only had time to taste one wine and asked him to choose the wine, so he poured us each a glass of Moscato delle Rose.  It is a sweet wine made from a rare grape variety.

 

I just realized the reason I like both Fiore and Zanovello’s wines: it is because both winemakers understand the notion of elegance in all its depth of meaning.

 

Did I taste other wines during the fair?  Of course I did…these are only a few of the highlights.